Words are very powerful. People think that natural = good and preservatives = evil. This is not true. Not everything that is natural is good and not all preservatives are bad. Sure, some aren't that good since they're formaldehyde releasing, but they are put in there for a reason. That reason is to keep natural freebies* from growing in your product.
According to Swift Crafty Monkey, any product with water or a water-based ingredient, such as aloe, needs a preservative. She is an expert formulator and has published a number of articles on preservatives. A few other good websites are Personal Care Truth, School of Natural Skincare, Safe Cosmetics, and Making Skincare. The Nerdy Farmer's Wife did a neat experiment on types of preservatives in homemade lotion that is worth a read.
Now if you just want to throw a bunch of oils and butters in a pot and make a body butter, that's fine, no preservatives are needed. Same thing goes for sugar or salt scrubs with just sugar or salt and oil. Just make sure you don't contaminate the product with water or anything water based. That means keeping it in the shower is a no-go.
With bar soap (and most products with a pH of 10 and more) you don't need preservatives, even with milk soap. As far as liquid soap goes, the jury is out. Here's what the Handmade Soap Coach, Soap Queen, and All Sorts of Soap have to say. I have an issue with adding water to a soap base, such as with Dr. Bronner's. I feel like once water is added (even distilled water), then the clock starts ticking.
If you need a preservative, there is a wide variety you can choose from. If preservatives aren't used or aren't used correctly, you will get freebies* with your natural products.
*Natural Freebies in Products without a Proper Preservative System
Natural preservatives often have a shorter shelf life, so keep that in mind. Some people believe that Vitamin E (an antioxidant) is a preservative. It's not. It's an anti-oxidant that simply extends the shelf life, it doesn't stop things from growing in a product. Natural options may be possible but you usually have to use a combination of them. Chemists Corner has some good articles that you can read.
You will need a lab to do these tests. A third-party independent lab is the best. You can do PH tests at home. Just forget about the PH strips. Those aren't accurate enough. They're made for testing bodily fluids. You need a PH meter, such as the one by Hanna or Apera.
Saying a product looks or smells good is not a test. That's not scientific. There are labs and microscopes for a reason.
From Nature With Love has a list of labs that do challenge tests. SSS Online also has a list and Micro Consult Inc. is a lab often used by smaller companies. Ideally, you should do tests on each and every batch you sell. It's not cheap. However, it will ensure that your product is safely formulated, it's ethical, and it will be much cheaper than being sued.
Not using a separate facility
You can't just make cosmetics in your kitchen. Food and cosmetics don't mix. You will need a separate place according to GMP (Good Manufacturing Practices). If the product is sold in the USA, then you can report them to the FDA and the CPSP. If it's sold in Canada, report them to Health Canada. Below you can find some examples of products that are not properly formulated.
Not Properly Formulated
If the product is sold in the USA, then you can report them to the FDA and the CPSP. If it's sold in Canada, report them to Health Canada. Below you can find some examples of products that are not properly formulated.
In order to do this, they must have been certified and approved to do this. This means that they are allowed to use a seal by a recognized organic certification organization. If they are not approved, they can say that they use organic ingredients, but cannot say that the product as a whole is organic. If the product is sold in the the USA, report them to the USDA. If it's sold in Europe, contact COSMOS and Ecocert. If it's sold in Canada, report them to CFIA.
Making Other Product Claims, such as Drug Claims
Many people will be surprised that cosmetic companies actually make drug claims. If they do so without receiving the proper authority, then they become an unapproved drug. SOme examples of this are stimulates hair growth, makes pores smaller, heals, anti-blemish, reduces the appearance of veins, and loads more. You can find more examples in this article about what product claims a company can and cannot make. If the product is sold in the USA, contact the Federal Trade and Commission and the FDA. If it's sold in Canada, then contact the Competition Bureau if it's in Canada.
Do You *Really* Need a Preservative?
Most of the time, if you hydrous solution (water or a water-based product, such as aloe) preservatives are a necessity. Preservatives protect a product from
gram negative bacteria, gram positive bacteria, yeast, mold, and fungus. When needed, a broad spectrum preservative or a combination of preservatives should be used. Honey can be an amazing preservative by taking up free water so bacteria can't grow or it can be food for micro organisms. You will definitely need to get products tested to find out.According to Swift Crafty Monkey, any product with water or a water-based ingredient, such as aloe, needs a preservative. She is an expert formulator and has published a number of articles on preservatives. A few other good websites are Personal Care Truth, School of Natural Skincare, Safe Cosmetics, and Making Skincare. The Nerdy Farmer's Wife did a neat experiment on types of preservatives in homemade lotion that is worth a read.
Now if you just want to throw a bunch of oils and butters in a pot and make a body butter, that's fine, no preservatives are needed. Same thing goes for sugar or salt scrubs with just sugar or salt and oil. Just make sure you don't contaminate the product with water or anything water based. That means keeping it in the shower is a no-go.
With bar soap (and most products with a pH of 10 and more) you don't need preservatives, even with milk soap. As far as liquid soap goes, the jury is out. Here's what the Handmade Soap Coach, Soap Queen, and All Sorts of Soap have to say. I have an issue with adding water to a soap base, such as with Dr. Bronner's. I feel like once water is added (even distilled water), then the clock starts ticking.
If you need a preservative, there is a wide variety you can choose from. If preservatives aren't used or aren't used correctly, you will get freebies* with your natural products.
*Natural Freebies in Products without a Proper Preservative System
- Gram negative bacteria
- Gram positive bacteria
- Yeast
- Mold
- Fungus
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How to Avoid Using Preservatives
Ok, so you don't want to use preservatives at all whether they be natural or synthetic. There are a few options you have.- Don't use water or water-based ingredients. For example, if you just have carrier oils, butters, and essential oils, you won't need one. The same goes for dry ingredients. Want to mix a bunch of different dry clays together and then scoop some into your hands and add water to that? Great! No preservative needed. Two ingredient sugar scrub with sugar and oil? Ok, just keep it out of the shower. Scoop some into a container. Take that container into the shower and use the whole amount.
- Use the hurdle method (and even some people disagree about this).
- Put it in the fridge and use it within the given time (I've seen 3-5 days recommended). Pretend it's food. How long would you keep food and eat it after it's been made?
- Freeze it in small amounts. Take it out of your freezer and use that whole amount. Anything leftover needs to be used ASAP or thrown out.
Using Extracts as Preservatives
Ironically, extracts can function as parabens (which are a common preservative) depending on the solvent used for the extract.
Natural Preservative Options
For whatever reason, many people prefer to use natural options. That's fine. Please make sure you do it safely. When products have water added to it and boast of being preservative-free, just think of how many nasty things can be growing in it. The fact that it looks and smells fine doesn't matter. You need a microscope to see microscopic organisms. Products need to go through PET (preservative efficacy testing) challenge tests.Natural preservatives often have a shorter shelf life, so keep that in mind. Some people believe that Vitamin E (an antioxidant) is a preservative. It's not. It's an anti-oxidant that simply extends the shelf life, it doesn't stop things from growing in a product. Natural options may be possible but you usually have to use a combination of them. Chemists Corner has some good articles that you can read.
- Natural cosmetic preservatives ingredients and strategies
- Natural preservatives in cosmetics - a trend
- Alternative cosmetic preservatives - what are your options?
- Natural cosmetic preservative questions answered
Testing
There are two tests that are commonly done to test if preservatives are working. The first is APC (aerobic plate counts) which tests how may micro organisms there are right then and there. The next is the famous challenge test (USP 51) or PET (preservative efficacy test) which usually takes 28 days although some brands choose to go longer. These are not optional, despite many people thinking they are. Here's what the FDA has to say about microbiological methods for cosmetics.You will need a lab to do these tests. A third-party independent lab is the best. You can do PH tests at home. Just forget about the PH strips. Those aren't accurate enough. They're made for testing bodily fluids. You need a PH meter, such as the one by Hanna or Apera.
Saying a product looks or smells good is not a test. That's not scientific. There are labs and microscopes for a reason.
From Nature With Love has a list of labs that do challenge tests. SSS Online also has a list and Micro Consult Inc. is a lab often used by smaller companies. Ideally, you should do tests on each and every batch you sell. It's not cheap. However, it will ensure that your product is safely formulated, it's ethical, and it will be much cheaper than being sued.
How to Report a Non-Compliant Product
Please report products that are not compliant. I believe that you are ethically bound to report non-compliant products so that people do not have harmful reactions to them. Your report will be anonymous. There are different ways that products can become non-compliant.Not using a separate facility
You can't just make cosmetics in your kitchen. Food and cosmetics don't mix. You will need a separate place according to GMP (Good Manufacturing Practices). If the product is sold in the USA, then you can report them to the FDA and the CPSP. If it's sold in Canada, report them to Health Canada. Below you can find some examples of products that are not properly formulated.
Not Properly Formulated
If the product is sold in the USA, then you can report them to the FDA and the CPSP. If it's sold in Canada, report them to Health Canada. Below you can find some examples of products that are not properly formulated.
- A product that lacks a preservative when one is needed. For example, it has water as the main ingredient and no preservative.
- A product that does not have enough preservatives added. For example, it has water and only uses citric acid.
- A product that does not use emulsifiers when mixing oils and water. For example, essential oils and water.
In order to do this, they must have been certified and approved to do this. This means that they are allowed to use a seal by a recognized organic certification organization. If they are not approved, they can say that they use organic ingredients, but cannot say that the product as a whole is organic. If the product is sold in the the USA, report them to the USDA. If it's sold in Europe, contact COSMOS and Ecocert. If it's sold in Canada, report them to CFIA.
Making Other Product Claims, such as Drug Claims
Many people will be surprised that cosmetic companies actually make drug claims. If they do so without receiving the proper authority, then they become an unapproved drug. SOme examples of this are stimulates hair growth, makes pores smaller, heals, anti-blemish, reduces the appearance of veins, and loads more. You can find more examples in this article about what product claims a company can and cannot make. If the product is sold in the USA, contact the Federal Trade and Commission and the FDA. If it's sold in Canada, then contact the Competition Bureau if it's in Canada.
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